I have a “Mag-lLite” that has one corroded battery stuck inside, and I was looking for information on how to take one apart, so that I could remove the battery and clean up the flashlight. I hope to be able to save the flashlight from going into the trash heap using this info.
This is just a follow up. The Mag-Lite works again!
I found that I had to completely take it apart, mainly because I had poured baking soda and water into to neutralize the battery acid, but doing this required me to make sure all of the water was out for the switch to get it working again.
The pictures here at this site were a great resource to me! The only thing that slowed me down slightly was the first time I inserted the hex wrench into the switch. I didn’t realize for a moment the hex wrench need to go into the flashlight switch as far as it could to reach the hex screw to loosen it.
Also want to point out that when you reassemble the flashlight not to try to tighten the hex screws as tight as you can, but only snugg it VERY slightly. No, I didn’t strip my hex screws, but I could see the strong chance of someone stripping out theirs.
WOW….at first I took my mag apart and it wasn’t working and then I remembered that I hadn’t screwed the allen screw down in the SWITCH!!!! This was the problem all along………Hey guys thanks for posting this site…..I am so relieved. I work in a field where your flashlight is your baby…..and now she’s back kickin’ alive again!!! Thanks again!!!!
Cool im liking the site just one thing for this mag light section I learned this fiddling with my light when i was a security guard. You dont need to use a screw driver to remove the rubber cover over the button. Just push it down into the on position then pinch the centre and pull it’ll pop right off.Its safer this way then u dont run the chance of slipping and tearing the rubber cover.
First of all.. perfect explanetory site. I didn’t know about the allen screw. My 3d mag fell overboard during berthing, while sailing in greece. The following morning, I was able to recover it from 8mtr depth. Lucky me! Unfortunately it doesn’t work any more. I want to take it apart but can’t release the allen screw inside the switch. Can anybody tell me if it is an english hex wrench and if yes, which size it is? I’ve only metric wrenches and need to order one if necessary. Hopefully somebody can help me!
I’ve always used a 2 mm, but it might be an english very slightly larger equivalent, and a quick convert says that’d make it a 3/32ds. Incidentally, I have an extremely compleat set of both english and metric hexs from paperclip size all the way to 10 mm from Kijkshop for not all that much, so you might try that. I think it was 10 or 20 euros — but you can amortise it over a lot of fiddly little jobs.
When you insert a 2 mm hex wrench into yours (it goes very nearly out the other side again, so make sure you use the long end, or it won’t reach), and you get it into the screw, and you try to turn it, does it a) turn freely b) no movement at all, or c) moves back and forth a little then binds?
a) You haven’t inserted it far enough
b) Use more force and hope like hell you don’t break the 2 mm key.
c) Then it might be subtly the wrong size.
Salt water encrustations could seriously bind the screw, so I think it’s probably just pretty stuck.
Does anyone have a close up or diagram of the switch assembly? When I removed it it came apart and I think one of the metal tabs is broken. I see you can purchase a new assembly for $4 + shipping but I only need to replace one or two of the metal tabs to fix it. Anyone of a source for those parts? Thanks.
Hey all, great work here, and for those who are handy why not give this a try? I did want you to be aware that If the battery which is stuck or corroded. in your mag lights are Duracell. Eveready or Rayo-Vac, the Co will replace the light for free. And even if they are odd brand batteries, they price for a replacement is $12.00 for even the biggest d cell model.
Found your site using Yahoo! Canada. Bought a new 3 watt LED conversion for my 2-Cell D Mag, and found the batteries (still working, still bright) were completely corroded and had foamed all over the inside.
Your instructions were just what I needed for a complete disassembly, clean and re-build. I’m letting it dry completely for a couple of days before I replace the seals and screw the top and bottom back on, but it works.
Not as good as new, some of the inside anodized paint is all flaked off, but looks about the same on the outside, and works great again.
The 3 watt LED is impressive. I certainly appears more intense than the standard bulb, but I’m used to the Magnum Star bulbs, which are a bit brighter. Still, this one can be banged around even harder now, without worry of breaking a filament. It’s better on batteries overall, but it’s no keychain LED that goes for years on batteries. A 3 watt LED still draws 3 watts. An LED nightlight I have has three white LED’s and only draws 0.8 watts. This is no nightlight.
I also have a 6 D-cell Mag, and I think maybe I’m done with it. The only reason I had it, was because it was as bright as a 2 D-cell flashlight, but lasted 3 times longer.
Now my 2 D-Cell Mag is about as bright as it was, but lasts about 5 times longer. Why carry around the extra weight and length of 4 D-cells? Even the police have moved on past big flashlights.
Great pics. I found a 5D mag-lite in the deset and put batteries in it but it didn’t work. So just for kicks I did a google on “mag-lite take apart pics” and found your site. I took apart my my flashlight as per your diagrams and I discovered that the spring for the lightbuld was missing. So I took one out of an old clickpen I had laying around and now my mag lite works great! Thanks. BTW: Anyone know where I can get a spring for my pen?
Excellent site!! I still have 2 duracell D cells stuck inside a 3D model but without the info on this side I would not have been able to strip the torch/flashlite down to just the metal tube. I found a 3/32″ hex wrench/allen key worked for me.
I ended up having to use a power drill woth a masonary bit and a set of chisels and mallet to get the very corroded C cells out.. then made with the Sodium Bicarb.. all cleaned and as good as new.. from the outside that is
I’m missing something, how do you get the retaining ring out of the main barrel to remove the switch assembly? I can get the free end to flex but can’t get the ring to release. I didn’t see this ring anywhere in the pictures. or is this a newer one without that ring?
Hey, um I work somewhere where I am allowed to play with lots of mag lights….okay not so much play as well one of the maint. people had a busted one and found this web site and tore it all apart and now it still don’t work….must be the switch right??????
I got it back together and stupid thing still don’t work, so i am going with the switch is broken!!!!
With older Mags the switch ass’y comes out through the front. You need to unscrew the plastic retaining ring with a pair of long-nosed pliers inserted into the two holes in the ring either side of the bulb holder.
Anyone have suggestion on how to get a corroded D battery out. It is stuck in the middle of the batter compartment. Tried following the instructions, but since the light assembly comes out the butt, I am stuck.
hi thanks alot for this site info it was great i have a 4d mag lite and i took it right down trough the switch and your site hepled me put my mag back together.. cheers
Any recommendations on getting a jammed, corroded battery out of a maglite? I managed to get the lodged battery down to the end, but can’t figure out a way to get it totally out. I don’t suppose there’s a way to get the switch assembly out the end it’s on is there? Thanks for any suggestions.
To remove stuck cells, last resort is a corkscrew (wine bottle cork remover). Use a nail or a sharpened rod in a drill motor to make a starter hole in the bottom of the cell. Worst case, you’ll wind up pulling the bottom of the cell off, where you can then dump out the loose guts of the cell and then pry out the can that makes up the walls of the cell.
LuAnn and Derrick:
I just removed a corroded battery from my Mag-Lite. I was stuck real good. Once I figured out how the thing came apart I realized that the only thing to do was force that battery out.
SOLUTION:
Use a wood 2×4 and bang that flash light down onto it repeatedly until the battery comes out. If you drill into the battery in an attempt to twist it out you’ll have a big mess on your hands (which I tried and had liquid battery residue everywhere). YOU MUST MAKE SURE TO BANG THE FLASHLIGHT STRAIGHT DOWN OR YOU’LL BEND THE ALUMINUM TUBE. The wood is to protect the threads on the ends. You’ll want to do this outside or in your basement as battery fragments will be falling out of the tube.
Once the batteries were out I then had to take a scouring pad, roll it up onto a flat screwdriver, insert it into the tube and twist it all around to clean the battery residue off the insides of the tube (handle). I then had to gently force the light assembly out (after unscrewing the button-switch) of the opposite end with a screw-driver.
After the tube/handle was completely empty I took the scouring pad and roll it onto a standard screwdriver and cleaned the inside of the tube. That took several times before all the battery residue was gone. Mine was so bad that the acid had eaten a lot of the insides of the aluminum tube. Its not smooth anymore.
DON’T LOSE ANY OF THE LITTLE PARTS OF THE LIGHT ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU TAKE IT APART. I did. I was banging the assembly on the 2×4 to get the battery acid off of it and springs flew everywhere and some parts fell into the kitchen sink.
Hello all,
I have a 3 cell and the battery closest to the switch leaked acid and was stuck. I need to clean the inside and followed the steps in the above pictures, however I cannot get the switch to come out. I checked the hex screw twice, it engages and then I loosen it, I just cant pry the sucker loose like in picture number 18. I soaked it in bs and water but its still not budging, any suggestions?
For people with a STUCK CORRODED BATTERY- I used a hammer and smacked the sides of the casing and the end. I held it in my hand and not against the ground so the casing wouldn’t change shape, but get a good shaking. I recommend using the head of the hammer for the side of the casing and the flat side of the hammer for the end of the casing. It took about 30 swings to each side to get it out. You could also try soaking it is bs for a while. Just make sure to dry is all out before putting it back together. All the best, cheers!
Wow, if I had checked for this first, we would be able to get TWO Maglights working again, but with one of the light assemblies shattered from smacking it on a piece of wood to loosen the battery. At least now we know how to remove that part first!
First of all, thank you for this wonderful details!!!
And here’s my problem…
My bottom cap is stuck (the first step to dismantle)… try everything (like WD40,etc…)
So now I would like t oknow if there is any way i can remove the snap ring, then the switch from the top and remove the batteries… and finally force open the back cap…
I think this site is great but I still can’t get the batteries out of the tube. I get to that point where I can’t get the switch out because of the corroded battery stuck to the switch case. I’m about to try drilling it out but I’m a little nervous about taking that step. I’ve used baking soda, a hammer, and other tools to try to pry it out…no luck. I guess this is my last plea for advice before gettng out the power tools. Any other ideas? please. pretty please.
Try poking the buildup material with the metal vertebra of old wiper blades. Use the barbed end of the metal vertebra for scraping. This took me 5 minutes to get the stuck battery out. But, be careful with your eyes. – Jojo of Walnut, CA
Thanks for your posting I have an old 5 c cell mag the switch would only work if you kept your finger on the button when I went to take it appart I found the hex screw was loose I tightened it up and it works fine now.once again thanks.
What about for the new LED mini-mag’s. I have a 2-AA cell light and am having problems with the switch mechanism. Just wondering how to get it out? Thanks
Awesome site. Beats the heck out of sending it in for repair. I used a weapons bore brush to scrape away the acid buildup in the barrel of the flashlight, then lightly oiled it to prevent further corrosion. Thanks again for the tips on how to dismantle the flashlight
Most batteries are alkaline, if you dump some vinegar not baking soda, or even Coke (I don’t know if Pepsi works) down the barrel this will neutralize the battery goo. I did this and used a heat gun on the outside of the barrel to loosen the batteries. Then repeatedly smacked against a wood block. FINALLY! six D cells later. If you used Eveready, Ray o Vac or Duracell batteries Maglite will send you a new one, you would be out the shipping. Maglite offered to repair or replace mine for $12.00 plus shipping and tax.
Thanks for this web page it really helped.
Hi Jimmy, I removed the snap ring by drill a 3mm hole from the outside and using a small screwdriver just pushed it out, patch the hole with Prately metal epoxy when finished.
Thanks for the pictures but can anyone help me please!! I am the frustarted owner of a 6D Mag-lite. I bought from an auction and quickly realised that there is a corroded battery in the top (bulb end). I have tried to take it apart but after loosening the hex screw in the switch, I become stuck! The switch does not move up or down but can be turned with a little effort to go left and right. Is the switch and the housing (as shown in pics 18 and 19, supposed to come out of the top (bulb end) or bottom (screw cap end). If it is supposed to come out the top, or the bottom. If it’s the bottom, there is a corroded battery stuck in it’s way!!!! HELP!!!!
Top work! Just rescued a 3 cell from corrosion hell. I found it quite easy to take the retaining circlip out the bulb end, but wouldn’t have had a clue about the hex screw in the switch. Brilliant.
Folks, before you start putting chemicals in your flashlight to remove stuck corroded batteries, know what kind of batteries are in there in the first place. If they are alkaline batteries, as is most likely, putting in sodium bicarbonate (another alkali) won’t do a thing. Vinegar (a mild acid) is what you need to neutralize the alkali. Coca-cola, also a mild acid, is also alleged to work, although then you get sugary goo in your flashlight — wash thoroughly!
References to “battery acid” are probably a mistake. Car batteries use acid, but not usually dry cells.
Hey great job. Your missing one thing , take picture of the inside of the case. There is a Jesus clip inside keeping the bulb housing from going forward. I am taking one apart with bad batteries in it.
I found that a 2mm allen head worked in mine..The 5/64 is a scosh small.
I can turn the switch, but that one battery is not moving…I will try the Real Thing (coke) and see if that works.
BTW, my serial number starts with “D”…
Remind me not to loan anything to my grandson again….
3 cell maglite. switch assembly comes out end opposite bulb. top battery leaked and stuck against switch assemly. used 9/16 deep well socket and extension rod to tap switch assembly and battery out. had to tap quite hard. cleaned, reassembled, works fine.
Thanx so much…….. I too had one Cell stuck in the tube, it was swollen so tight that I actually had to remove the switch to get it out. Luckily the Six Cell Flashlights’ switch comes out the front, because I had to use a long dowl and a hammer to get it out. Thanx to you guys I was able to save a Six Cell Flashlight that can’t be replaced. Too Cool.
Doe’s anyone know what will cause the main spring that holds up the bulb socket to fail. when I took the switch apart the spring looked as if it had shrunk. I did not see any sign’s of excessive heat. I was using a 20 and 30 watt bulb at 10.5 and 12.3 volts. It has happened 3 times in 8 months. To answer a question I seen someone asked on this site,I checked to see if the company I delt with still sells the new type switch . as soon as I hear from them I will post a link here for those of you looking for switches new switches were only $4.00 and maybe change plus a few buck’s shipping. I do not remember the exact amount but they were fast and cheaper then anyone the old type switch was $8.50 give or take a few cents. Any coments about the spring problem will be welcome
Gerald try { maglitesales.com/maglitestore/index/php/cPath/369 } If i knew how I would just have put the link here for you. I just was looking at the site and they have the old type D size switches in stock. They are fast too,I have bought several switches from them, but this time I did not see the new type listed. I am waiting for them to contact me now .the old switch is about $8.50 good luck
thank you so much for the pictures my mag cought fire and burned all the batteries into the shaft i needed to take off the top without breaking it so i could drill out the batteries…. worked fantastic and now my 6 cell mag works again thanks
Didn’t want to mess with the switch-so i kept pouring vinegar onto the stuck-corroded battery daily-prodding it with a screw driver. Even drilled holes by the sides of the battery and case.After a week was able to pull it out with pliers =put new batteries in and wd” the case-wahla!
I can’t push the assembly down. Looks like there is corrosion right at the base. I even tried using a dowel and a hammer to force it down but no luck. Any recommendations.Also the bottom of the assembly seems to be all metal and not plastic.
Helo, and thank’s for the information. I have had 5 switches quit working,and all but one of them I can not find the problem. I am puting 7.2 to 12 volt’s through them. It sem’s that the spring look’s as if it shrunk. is this possable ? only one switch showed any signs of excess heat,it had a bit of discolor to it.. putting the switch bach together,the main spring keep’s comming loose and the metal cap’s top and bottom seperate and sometime’s fall out. Am I puting them back wronk or over looking something ?. I even tried to use a stronger spring,only once ,i wil try to cut the lenght the rite size and try again. I have 5 switches to experiment with. any help or comment’s are welcom. I can be contacted at { win734440@aol.com }. P.S nice pictures. thank you wayne Farrar
I’m having a problem with the reassembly. The metal ring on the inside is preventing the switch from going back into it’s original position. I tried forcing it, but that didn’t work. This is a “D” serial number (newer) and the retaining ring does not have any screws. What am I doing wrong? I was so happy because I fixed the sticking switch, but now I can’t get it back together.
I just got a check for 18.95 from Duracell for my 3 D Cell Batttery Maglite.The Duracell batteries had leaked and corroded themselves tightly into the aluminum housing. Thanks to all who contributed on how to get these buggers out. It was a job!! I soaked with Coke overnite, soaked with vinegar. Nothing really dissolved the crud. I finally got the switch out from the front. You;ll need allen wrench to do that. Next. I set the bottom end on a board, then beat the batteries out using a wooden dowel (actually a cut off broom stick). Go to Duracell.com then follow link for support. Don’t bother eamil route. Just call. I got thru to a P&G customer service rep (CSR) who apologized for the leakage. At first, I guessed I paid 35 bucks for the maglte – the CSR offered to send me a check for 35 dollars. But then I felt like I should check. We both looked onto the internet and agreed on a replacement cost of 18.95. Let them know that their batteries damaged your light. You’ll be surprised with the response. Best regards to all who have written in. Charlie G. – Severn a Park Maryland
I was unable to force the switch and corroded batteries out the bottom of the flashlight as a few others have mentioned. I resolved the issue by removing the retaining circlip out the bulb end after I slid the switch downward a little bit. Then I was able to push everything out the top end. After scraping the inside I was able to reassemble and it works like new! Thank you all for your great feedback on this issue.
nice, the pictures are pretty well taken one handed, haha, sheesh, are you tryin to get rid of me?
Haha, ….maybe :-p
Brandon is our usual disassembler, folks. I’m responsible for photographing as he goes. He couldn’t be present for this take-apart session, though.
Google lead me staight to this place .
I have a “Mag-lLite” that has one corroded battery stuck inside, and I was looking for information on how to take one apart, so that I could remove the battery and clean up the flashlight. I hope to be able to save the flashlight from going into the trash heap using this info.
Thanks!
This is just a follow up. The Mag-Lite works again!
I found that I had to completely take it apart, mainly because I had poured baking soda and water into to neutralize the battery acid, but doing this required me to make sure all of the water was out for the switch to get it working again.
The pictures here at this site were a great resource to me! The only thing that slowed me down slightly was the first time I inserted the hex wrench into the switch. I didn’t realize for a moment the hex wrench need to go into the flashlight switch as far as it could to reach the hex screw to loosen it.
Also want to point out that when you reassemble the flashlight not to try to tighten the hex screws as tight as you can, but only snugg it VERY slightly. No, I didn’t strip my hex screws, but I could see the strong chance of someone stripping out theirs.
WOW….at first I took my mag apart and it wasn’t working and then I remembered that I hadn’t screwed the allen screw down in the SWITCH!!!! This was the problem all along………Hey guys thanks for posting this site…..I am so relieved. I work in a field where your flashlight is your baby…..and now she’s back kickin’ alive again!!! Thanks again!!!!
Cool im liking the site just one thing for this mag light section I learned this fiddling with my light when i was a security guard. You dont need to use a screw driver to remove the rubber cover over the button. Just push it down into the on position then pinch the centre and pull it’ll pop right off.Its safer this way then u dont run the chance of slipping and tearing the rubber cover.
I need to Know, about the lamp for the ligth 2 cell of 1,5 Volts. I am an Argentinian.
Thank and sorry about my English.
The 2 Cell flashlight uses this lamp.
Hai lads,
First of all.. perfect explanetory site. I didn’t know about the allen screw. My 3d mag fell overboard during berthing, while sailing in greece. The following morning, I was able to recover it from 8mtr depth. Lucky me! Unfortunately it doesn’t work any more. I want to take it apart but can’t release the allen screw inside the switch. Can anybody tell me if it is an english hex wrench and if yes, which size it is? I’ve only metric wrenches and need to order one if necessary. Hopefully somebody can help me!
By the way.. I’m from holland. That explains the metric story. Thanks in advance!
I’ve always used a 2 mm, but it might be an english very slightly larger equivalent, and a quick convert says that’d make it a 3/32ds. Incidentally, I have an extremely compleat set of both english and metric hexs from paperclip size all the way to 10 mm from Kijkshop for not all that much, so you might try that. I think it was 10 or 20 euros — but you can amortise it over a lot of fiddly little jobs.
When you insert a 2 mm hex wrench into yours (it goes very nearly out the other side again, so make sure you use the long end, or it won’t reach), and you get it into the screw, and you try to turn it, does it a) turn freely b) no movement at all, or c) moves back and forth a little then binds?
a) You haven’t inserted it far enough
b) Use more force and hope like hell you don’t break the 2 mm key.
c) Then it might be subtly the wrong size.
Salt water encrustations could seriously bind the screw, so I think it’s probably just pretty stuck.
Does anyone have a close up or diagram of the switch assembly? When I removed it it came apart and I think one of the metal tabs is broken. I see you can purchase a new assembly for $4 + shipping but I only need to replace one or two of the metal tabs to fix it. Anyone of a source for those parts? Thanks.
Hey all, great work here, and for those who are handy why not give this a try? I did want you to be aware that If the battery which is stuck or corroded. in your mag lights are Duracell. Eveready or Rayo-Vac, the Co will replace the light for free. And even if they are odd brand batteries, they price for a replacement is $12.00 for even the biggest d cell model.
Found your site using Yahoo! Canada. Bought a new 3 watt LED conversion for my 2-Cell D Mag, and found the batteries (still working, still bright) were completely corroded and had foamed all over the inside.
Your instructions were just what I needed for a complete disassembly, clean and re-build. I’m letting it dry completely for a couple of days before I replace the seals and screw the top and bottom back on, but it works.
Not as good as new, some of the inside anodized paint is all flaked off, but looks about the same on the outside, and works great again.
The 3 watt LED is impressive. I certainly appears more intense than the standard bulb, but I’m used to the Magnum Star bulbs, which are a bit brighter. Still, this one can be banged around even harder now, without worry of breaking a filament. It’s better on batteries overall, but it’s no keychain LED that goes for years on batteries. A 3 watt LED still draws 3 watts. An LED nightlight I have has three white LED’s and only draws 0.8 watts. This is no nightlight.
I also have a 6 D-cell Mag, and I think maybe I’m done with it. The only reason I had it, was because it was as bright as a 2 D-cell flashlight, but lasted 3 times longer.
Now my 2 D-Cell Mag is about as bright as it was, but lasts about 5 times longer. Why carry around the extra weight and length of 4 D-cells? Even the police have moved on past big flashlights.
Hi guys,
Great site. I think I messed up my switch when I was taking everything apart. Any idea where I can pick one up?
Is it recommended to remove batteries from the maglite when not in use?
I have stuck batteries after 2 years of limited use.
Great site.
I removed the allen set on the switch but cannot get the switch to come out? am I doing somthing wrong?
Great pics. I found a 5D mag-lite in the deset and put batteries in it but it didn’t work. So just for kicks I did a google on “mag-lite take apart pics” and found your site. I took apart my my flashlight as per your diagrams and I discovered that the spring for the lightbuld was missing. So I took one out of an old clickpen I had laying around and now my mag lite works great! Thanks. BTW: Anyone know where I can get a spring for my pen?
Oh excellent. Mine stopped working due to a battery death. It is currently soaking in WD 40. I’d have used oil but am too lazy.
Bloody marvellous. A couple of hours later and I have stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt my Mag-lite. It works perfectly.
Thank you for the tips.
Excellent site!! I still have 2 duracell D cells stuck inside a 3D model but without the info on this side I would not have been able to strip the torch/flashlite down to just the metal tube. I found a 3/32″ hex wrench/allen key worked for me.
Thanks
I ended up having to use a power drill woth a masonary bit and a set of chisels and mallet to get the very corroded C cells out.. then made with the Sodium Bicarb.. all cleaned and as good as new.. from the outside that is
Got my Mag-lite up and running with your site …thanks !
I’m missing something, how do you get the retaining ring out of the main barrel to remove the switch assembly? I can get the free end to flex but can’t get the ring to release. I didn’t see this ring anywhere in the pictures. or is this a newer one without that ring?
Never mind, I see now. It comes out the butt end, not the front end.
Thanks for the info on the hex key (which was where I was stumped on the disassembly). I would add two things:
1. Use a wood dowel to gently tap out the switch assembly if it is blocked by battery corrosion build-up.
2. A corroded inner wall of the battery cylinder can be honed smooth by placing a rotary wire brush on a speedbor extension and then used in a drill.
It help me very much.
Where can I get a switch for the older types of maglite D cell switch, the maglite compant is not helpful?
Hey, um I work somewhere where I am allowed to play with lots of mag lights….okay not so much play as well one of the maint. people had a busted one and found this web site and tore it all apart and now it still don’t work….must be the switch right??????
I got it back together and stupid thing still don’t work, so i am going with the switch is broken!!!!
With older Mags the switch ass’y comes out through the front. You need to unscrew the plastic retaining ring with a pair of long-nosed pliers inserted into the two holes in the ring either side of the bulb holder.
Anyone have suggestion on how to get a corroded D battery out. It is stuck in the middle of the batter compartment. Tried following the instructions, but since the light assembly comes out the butt, I am stuck.
That was awsome!! It saved my life I mean Light!
hi thanks alot for this site info it was great i have a 4d mag lite and i took it right down trough the switch and your site hepled me put my mag back together.. cheers
Any recommendations on getting a jammed, corroded battery out of a maglite? I managed to get the lodged battery down to the end, but can’t figure out a way to get it totally out. I don’t suppose there’s a way to get the switch assembly out the end it’s on is there? Thanks for any suggestions.
To remove stuck cells, last resort is a corkscrew (wine bottle cork remover). Use a nail or a sharpened rod in a drill motor to make a starter hole in the bottom of the cell. Worst case, you’ll wind up pulling the bottom of the cell off, where you can then dump out the loose guts of the cell and then pry out the can that makes up the walls of the cell.
THANKS for the information Chris!
LuAnn and Derrick:
I just removed a corroded battery from my Mag-Lite. I was stuck real good. Once I figured out how the thing came apart I realized that the only thing to do was force that battery out.
SOLUTION:
Use a wood 2×4 and bang that flash light down onto it repeatedly until the battery comes out. If you drill into the battery in an attempt to twist it out you’ll have a big mess on your hands (which I tried and had liquid battery residue everywhere). YOU MUST MAKE SURE TO BANG THE FLASHLIGHT STRAIGHT DOWN OR YOU’LL BEND THE ALUMINUM TUBE. The wood is to protect the threads on the ends. You’ll want to do this outside or in your basement as battery fragments will be falling out of the tube.
Once the batteries were out I then had to take a scouring pad, roll it up onto a flat screwdriver, insert it into the tube and twist it all around to clean the battery residue off the insides of the tube (handle). I then had to gently force the light assembly out (after unscrewing the button-switch) of the opposite end with a screw-driver.
After the tube/handle was completely empty I took the scouring pad and roll it onto a standard screwdriver and cleaned the inside of the tube. That took several times before all the battery residue was gone. Mine was so bad that the acid had eaten a lot of the insides of the aluminum tube. Its not smooth anymore.
DON’T LOSE ANY OF THE LITTLE PARTS OF THE LIGHT ASSEMBLY WHEN YOU TAKE IT APART. I did. I was banging the assembly on the 2×4 to get the battery acid off of it and springs flew everywhere and some parts fell into the kitchen sink.
Hope that helps.
Hello all,
I have a 3 cell and the battery closest to the switch leaked acid and was stuck. I need to clean the inside and followed the steps in the above pictures, however I cannot get the switch to come out. I checked the hex screw twice, it engages and then I loosen it, I just cant pry the sucker loose like in picture number 18. I soaked it in bs and water but its still not budging, any suggestions?
For people with a STUCK CORRODED BATTERY- I used a hammer and smacked the sides of the casing and the end. I held it in my hand and not against the ground so the casing wouldn’t change shape, but get a good shaking. I recommend using the head of the hammer for the side of the casing and the flat side of the hammer for the end of the casing. It took about 30 swings to each side to get it out. You could also try soaking it is bs for a while. Just make sure to dry is all out before putting it back together. All the best, cheers!
CORRODED BATTERY. Also, drilling the center out, then prying the sides of the battery off the casing with a screw driver…
Thanks for having such a great resource. I’ve been searching all over for this.
Anyone know where I could find something like this for a Maglite Solitaire?
This is a terrific site always wondered how to strip a Maglite
Many thanks
Phil – in UK
Wow, if I had checked for this first, we would be able to get TWO Maglights working again, but with one of the light assemblies shattered from smacking it on a piece of wood to loosen the battery. At least now we know how to remove that part first!
Thanks, all. I’ve never found a problem discussion that so thoroughly and clearly explained how to solve it. Now, about my old Timex watch….
First of all, thank you for this wonderful details!!!
And here’s my problem…
My bottom cap is stuck (the first step to dismantle)… try everything (like WD40,etc…)
So now I would like t oknow if there is any way i can remove the snap ring, then the switch from the top and remove the batteries… and finally force open the back cap…
I think this site is great but I still can’t get the batteries out of the tube. I get to that point where I can’t get the switch out because of the corroded battery stuck to the switch case. I’m about to try drilling it out but I’m a little nervous about taking that step. I’ve used baking soda, a hammer, and other tools to try to pry it out…no luck. I guess this is my last plea for advice before gettng out the power tools. Any other ideas? please. pretty please.
Try poking the buildup material with the metal vertebra of old wiper blades. Use the barbed end of the metal vertebra for scraping. This took me 5 minutes to get the stuck battery out. But, be careful with your eyes. – Jojo of Walnut, CA
Thanks for the great photos. It save my Mag-Lite. (I had to drive out the corroded battery with a dowel, but all’s well that ends well.)
Thanks for your posting I have an old 5 c cell mag the switch would only work if you kept your finger on the button when I went to take it appart I found the hex screw was loose I tightened it up and it works fine now.once again thanks.
What about for the new LED mini-mag’s. I have a 2-AA cell light and am having problems with the switch mechanism. Just wondering how to get it out? Thanks
Awesome site. Beats the heck out of sending it in for repair. I used a weapons bore brush to scrape away the acid buildup in the barrel of the flashlight, then lightly oiled it to prevent further corrosion. Thanks again for the tips on how to dismantle the flashlight
Mark
Colorado Springs, CO
Most batteries are alkaline, if you dump some vinegar not baking soda, or even Coke (I don’t know if Pepsi works) down the barrel this will neutralize the battery goo. I did this and used a heat gun on the outside of the barrel to loosen the batteries. Then repeatedly smacked against a wood block. FINALLY! six D cells later. If you used Eveready, Ray o Vac or Duracell batteries Maglite will send you a new one, you would be out the shipping. Maglite offered to repair or replace mine for $12.00 plus shipping and tax.
Thanks for this web page it really helped.
Hi Jimmy, I removed the snap ring by drill a 3mm hole from the outside and using a small screwdriver just pushed it out, patch the hole with Prately metal epoxy when finished.
Thanks for the pictures but can anyone help me please!! I am the frustarted owner of a 6D Mag-lite. I bought from an auction and quickly realised that there is a corroded battery in the top (bulb end). I have tried to take it apart but after loosening the hex screw in the switch, I become stuck! The switch does not move up or down but can be turned with a little effort to go left and right. Is the switch and the housing (as shown in pics 18 and 19, supposed to come out of the top (bulb end) or bottom (screw cap end). If it is supposed to come out the top, or the bottom. If it’s the bottom, there is a corroded battery stuck in it’s way!!!! HELP!!!!
hi i have a 2 d mag lite but when i try to remove the switch to repair the hex key just keeps clicking and it dosnt seem to lossen any ideas??????
Top work! Just rescued a 3 cell from corrosion hell. I found it quite easy to take the retaining circlip out the bulb end, but wouldn’t have had a clue about the hex screw in the switch. Brilliant.
Folks, before you start putting chemicals in your flashlight to remove stuck corroded batteries, know what kind of batteries are in there in the first place. If they are alkaline batteries, as is most likely, putting in sodium bicarbonate (another alkali) won’t do a thing. Vinegar (a mild acid) is what you need to neutralize the alkali. Coca-cola, also a mild acid, is also alleged to work, although then you get sugary goo in your flashlight — wash thoroughly!
References to “battery acid” are probably a mistake. Car batteries use acid, but not usually dry cells.
Hey great job. Your missing one thing , take picture of the inside of the case. There is a Jesus clip inside keeping the bulb housing from going forward. I am taking one apart with bad batteries in it.
I found that a 2mm allen head worked in mine..The 5/64 is a scosh small.
I can turn the switch, but that one battery is not moving…I will try the Real Thing (coke) and see if that works.
BTW, my serial number starts with “D”…
Remind me not to loan anything to my grandson again….
3 cell maglite. switch assembly comes out end opposite bulb. top battery leaked and stuck against switch assemly. used 9/16 deep well socket and extension rod to tap switch assembly and battery out. had to tap quite hard. cleaned, reassembled, works fine.
Oh-Man,
Thanx so much…….. I too had one Cell stuck in the tube, it was swollen so tight that I actually had to remove the switch to get it out. Luckily the Six Cell Flashlights’ switch comes out the front, because I had to use a long dowl and a hammer to get it out. Thanx to you guys I was able to save a Six Cell Flashlight that can’t be replaced. Too Cool.
Thanx again,
dugb
Doe’s anyone know what will cause the main spring that holds up the bulb socket to fail. when I took the switch apart the spring looked as if it had shrunk. I did not see any sign’s of excessive heat. I was using a 20 and 30 watt bulb at 10.5 and 12.3 volts. It has happened 3 times in 8 months. To answer a question I seen someone asked on this site,I checked to see if the company I delt with still sells the new type switch . as soon as I hear from them I will post a link here for those of you looking for switches new switches were only $4.00 and maybe change plus a few buck’s shipping. I do not remember the exact amount but they were fast and cheaper then anyone the old type switch was $8.50 give or take a few cents. Any coments about the spring problem will be welcome
Gerald try { maglitesales.com/maglitestore/index/php/cPath/369 } If i knew how I would just have put the link here for you. I just was looking at the site and they have the old type D size switches in stock. They are fast too,I have bought several switches from them, but this time I did not see the new type listed. I am waiting for them to contact me now .the old switch is about $8.50 good luck
thank you so much for the pictures my mag cought fire and burned all the batteries into the shaft i needed to take off the top without breaking it so i could drill out the batteries…. worked fantastic and now my 6 cell mag works again thanks
Agree with Ernest am trying it now!
Money to send it back-then more if they’re bandit batteries-just buy a new one-its your fault for not being on top of it.-Right?
Didn’t want to mess with the switch-so i kept pouring vinegar onto the stuck-corroded battery daily-prodding it with a screw driver. Even drilled holes by the sides of the battery and case.After a week was able to pull it out with pliers =put new batteries in and wd” the case-wahla!
Awe inspiring site guys! Needed your insite to save my Magg 4D from certain death ( by orders of the wife. SHEESH)
I can’t push the assembly down. Looks like there is corrosion right at the base. I even tried using a dowel and a hammer to force it down but no luck. Any recommendations.Also the bottom of the assembly seems to be all metal and not plastic.
Nevermind brute force worked now i need a new unit .
Helo, and thank’s for the information. I have had 5 switches quit working,and all but one of them I can not find the problem. I am puting 7.2 to 12 volt’s through them. It sem’s that the spring look’s as if it shrunk. is this possable ? only one switch showed any signs of excess heat,it had a bit of discolor to it.. putting the switch bach together,the main spring keep’s comming loose and the metal cap’s top and bottom seperate and sometime’s fall out. Am I puting them back wronk or over looking something ?. I even tried to use a stronger spring,only once ,i wil try to cut the lenght the rite size and try again. I have 5 switches to experiment with. any help or comment’s are welcom. I can be contacted at { win734440@aol.com }. P.S nice pictures. thank you wayne Farrar
I’m having a problem with the reassembly. The metal ring on the inside is preventing the switch from going back into it’s original position. I tried forcing it, but that didn’t work. This is a “D” serial number (newer) and the retaining ring does not have any screws. What am I doing wrong? I was so happy because I fixed the sticking switch, but now I can’t get it back together.
I just got a check for 18.95 from Duracell for my 3 D Cell Batttery Maglite.The Duracell batteries had leaked and corroded themselves tightly into the aluminum housing. Thanks to all who contributed on how to get these buggers out. It was a job!! I soaked with Coke overnite, soaked with vinegar. Nothing really dissolved the crud. I finally got the switch out from the front. You;ll need allen wrench to do that. Next. I set the bottom end on a board, then beat the batteries out using a wooden dowel (actually a cut off broom stick). Go to Duracell.com then follow link for support. Don’t bother eamil route. Just call. I got thru to a P&G customer service rep (CSR) who apologized for the leakage. At first, I guessed I paid 35 bucks for the maglte – the CSR offered to send me a check for 35 dollars. But then I felt like I should check. We both looked onto the internet and agreed on a replacement cost of 18.95. Let them know that their batteries damaged your light. You’ll be surprised with the response. Best regards to all who have written in. Charlie G. – Severn a Park Maryland
I was unable to force the switch and corroded batteries out the bottom of the flashlight as a few others have mentioned. I resolved the issue by removing the retaining circlip out the bulb end after I slid the switch downward a little bit. Then I was able to push everything out the top end. After scraping the inside I was able to reassemble and it works like new! Thank you all for your great feedback on this issue.
I have a Mag-ite AA that has corroded batteries, is it possible to remove them?